What’s Your ‘Wave’ Type?

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A friend of mine recently returned from the annual Duke Kahanamoku OceanFest Surfing competition at Waikiki Beach, Hawaii (August 17-25) where he served as one of the head graphic artists for the event. Waves are mysterious creatures and similar to personalities. The macho monster waves are created because their foundations are shallow. I.E. they thrive in areas where they can break in abruptly shallow reefs. This forces the charging water plane to have to shoot upward, which soon crests into the magical Fibonacci curve. When the ocean floor is not abrupt or close to surface, the wave is less reactionary and more fluid. This type of smaller wave is what allows surfers a longer ride. Huge waves personalities get a lot of hype, but without the storm behind them, they are basically shallow. The steady, even-keeled personality wave, though not as dramatic, will carry you a lot farther and also set you down in a softer spot.

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